The Greenwood Supper Club of Door County in Fish Creek, Wisconsin

copyright Milwaukee Journal Sentinal.
For the complete story click Supper Clubs.

Supper Clubs By Dennis Getto
Fads come and go through some big-city restaurants like tenants through a boardinghouse. In the past few decades, for instance, cheese fondue briefly found its way to American tables. Chefs who had never visited Louisiana blackened everything from catfish to tenderloin.

But supper clubs, which took root along America's byways as early as the 1920s, have outlasted them all. These unassuming dining establishments have remained faithful to a core menu of meat, specifically steaks and prime rib, with trimmings such as relish trays and savory potatoes.

Just what is a supper club?

A precise definition still eludes me, even after a couple thousand miles and about 50 dinners' worth of research, but I can offer generalizations.

Unlike their city cousins, supper clubs are destinations, where patrons head for an entire evening rather than as a prelude to other entertainment. Generous portions justify dining as the main event.

The mood is casual. While some patrons may dress up for special occasions, clothing runs the gamut from jeans and shorts to jackets and ties. The relaxed atmosphere puts families - even those with young children - at ease.

Another hallmark is a relish tray, which, in its simplest form, has carrots and celery sticks, radishes, olives and pickled peppers. Then there's cheddar cheese spread, that brilliant gold mixture that helped define us as the Dairy State. Served with crackers in various flavors and forms, scooped onto an appetizer plate or served in a small crock, it smooths the way for the rest of the feast.

Probably the most definitive feature is a simple menu. This is not a place to find delicate little entrees with edible flowers or citrus sauces. Top billing goes to thick, juicy steaks and prime rib, though on Fridays you'll inevitably find a fish fry. Fried shrimp, barbecued ribs, pork and lamb chops typically round out the menu.

The steaks are at their finest when adorned with sauteed mushrooms or onion rings (these might cost a buck or two extra, but it's money well spent). Prime rib served in its own juices, with an occasional dollop of horseradish sauce, satisfies a primal hunger. Surprisingly, the steaks were better prepared than the prime rib in most clubs I visited. The latter had a good, robust flavor, but it seldom was tender enough to cut with a fork.

Meat is of prime interest on the supper club circuit and, not surprisingly, so are potatoes. You'll find them baked, boiled, diced, shredded and fried. Avoid boring baked potatoes and french fries, which usually are pre-cut and frozen. Instead, select hash browns or American fries; at most of the places I tried them, these boasted crisp edges and creamy insides.

Desserts get less emphasis - maybe because stomachs have a lot to contend with after the hearty entrees - but you'll usually find cheesecake. More often, the patron who wants to leave with a sweet taste selects an ice cream drink such as a grasshopper, velvet hammer or brandy Alexander.

Speaking of drinks, don't look for a fancy wine list, since most supper clubs are bastions of beer and brandy old-fashioneds.